Kelly's Tips

Info on this page: 
Setup & Tuning Tips - Keeping it Simple
Other Great Tips
Other Great Tips
Kelly's Favorite Archery Web Site Links

Frequently Asked Questions
How does one know for sure if the spine is correct and accurate on wood shafts?

All wood shaft manufacturer’s sell shafting that is what we call “Factory Spine”. They are unmarked and spined by a machine, never taking into consideration grain placement or straightness. Some of the smaller outfits may hand spine, but they still are unmarked. Usually, they are just sorted into bins, boxes, etc. each being of a separate grouping, i.e. 45-50, 50-55, 55-60, etc.

These “Factory Spine” shafts cannot always be trusted as accurate because there is just too much margin for error. The large automated machine spined shafts, like Port Orford Cedar, will vary 15-20#, even as much as 40# difference when hand spined against the grain and zeroed out for straightness. This is why many years ago we were always told to shoot our broadhead tipped arrows to eliminate “flyers”. Only the serious hard core Fletchers hand spine their shafts. This remains the situation, today.

There is only one way to assure one is receiving shafts of the actual spine requested. That is by purchasing from a Fletcher who hand spines and marks the actual spine on each shaft. Only, then can the majority of mistakes be eliminated. In addition, groupings like 45-50, 50-55, 55-60, etc are actually 6# spine groups, not the standard 5# as advertised. 45-49, 50-54, 55-59, etc. are true 5 # groups.

You also, need to be aware that most of the spine testers manufactured and in use today contain faulty spine scales. The formula 26 divided by deflection equals pounds of spine is, and has been the standard of this industry for decades. However, since one can trace most of today’s spine tester’s back to manufacture’s (yes, they are copies) from the 1940’s-1950’s; for some reason unknown to me and other seasoned Fletcher’s, the original manufacture’s used two formula’s to their measuring scale. The Standard Formula was used for spine weights up to about 65# and then another different formula for weights over 65#. Sometimes, there were 3 or more formula’s used. This resulted in no uniformity, what so ever.

The most accurate spine tester, but the most time consuming is one that uses a dial indicator with 1” of travel and measures in thousands. However, several other key things need to be precise in order to assure accurate readings. These are necessary regardless of the type tester used. The support post must be exactly 26” on center. The 2# weight must be precisely 2.000# and it suspended on the shaft in the middle of the 26” supports. Any deviations from, or of these measurements and weights will result in wrong or different readings.

That said, as long as the shafts being measured the same way on the same spine tester, the resulting readings can still be accurately grouped and will result in useable matched shafting. They just will vary from Fletcher to Fletcher. Therefore, it is best to talk to your Fletcher and ask what formula they use and if using spine tester’s other than dial indicator, if they have recalibrated it to the Standard Formula, 26 divided by deflection equals pounds of spine.

We use a Scheib Spine Tester made in the 1950’s that has both thousands of deflection and pounds of spine on its scale. We have checked its accuracy with a dial indicator. The thousands part of scale is accurate, but the pounds side was wrong. We recalibrated this part of the scale many years ago. Today’s Flite Rite Spine Tester is an exact copy of the Scheib.

Should I use right or left wing feathers? Right wing for left handed and left wing for right handed?
This is an old wives tale and it really makes no difference Just make sure one is using all the same wing on a particular arrow and that you have the correct wing for your helical fletcher.

Is bare shaft testing necessary to get good arrow flight?
No! In fact, it is this bowhunters opinion that it is extremely difficult to accurately interpret the results for the vast majority of stick bow archers. One must have impeccable form, consistent draw, near perfect release, etc. in order to begin to make judgments/changes. If ones draw varies as little as 1/4” from one shot to another, or your bow arm collapses, or your release varies the results will change. Furthermore, the target median must be so uniform as to not change the direction of the shaft when entering and the archer must be perpendicular in all directions to the target. Any slight deviation will produce erroneous results. Lastly, it is very time consuming, costly and can be very frustrating. I will leave you with one final thought. If bare shaft testing is so crucial to obtain perfect spine/flight, then why does one put feathers on?

What glue should I use for nocks and feathers?
First off, the same type of glue is used for both. However, the type depends upon what type of paint is used, or the type of shafting.
• Wood shafts using gasket lacquer – use Duco Cement.
• Wood shafts using Bohning Lacquer – must use Fletch-Tite or Fletch-Tape.
• Wood shafts using enamel, polyurethane’s, varethane’s and water based paints – use Duco Cement.
• Aluminum shafts – use Fletch-Tite or Fletch-Tape.
• Fiberglass shafts – use Bond-Tite, Fletch-Tite or Fletch-Tape.
• Carbon shafts – use Bond-Tite or Fletch-Tape. Glues like Super Glue can also be used.

What glue should I use for points?
Hot Melt! The kind that works in Hot Glue Guns. The amber colored is the best and strongest; the white clear colored also, works if one cannot find the amber.

How do I keep points from coming off in 3-D targets?
This can be difficult at times, especially today with the super tough 3-D targets constructed to stop high speed, skinny carbon shafts. Use the amber colored Hot Melt, which is more pliable. Ferr-L-Tite seems more brittle and not as strong. Also, make sure the oil coating, sometimes found on field points, is thoroughly cleaned/removed. Look at the OTHER GREAT TIPS PAGE for how we install points.

What spine or size shafting should I use?
The true way is to shoot your broadhead tipped arrows. Use of my spine charts will work, too. At the very least, it will get you very close. There are so many variables involved that there is no concrete answer. Look at the SETUP AND TUNING TIPS PAGE for further information of how we setup our bows.

What is my actual draw length?
Your actual draw length is the distance from the string groove in nock to the back of the bow (that part of bow farthest from shooter). This distance should be measured while the shooter is concentrating on shooting the arrow, not drawing the bow to see how far it can be drawn. Use of another person is necessary who then watches your draw while you use your natural form. Many will be surprised to find that their actual draw length is shorter than previously thought.

How long should my arrows be? What does B.O. P. mean?
B.O. P. stands for Back Of Point measurement. It is measured from the bottom of string groove in nock to the back of point.

Your arrows should be as close to your actual draw length as possible. Depending upon the type of bow and the broadhead one uses, generally 1/2” to 1” longer than actual draw length is all that is necessary. Remember, the total arrow length is needed to figure spine and the arrow flexes its entire length through paradox, so any excess arrow sticking out in front of bow (2” or more) is wasted.

What bow/bows do I shoot?
For me, it is not so easy. Currently, I am shooting a 62” 42# @ 28” Thunderhorn Heart Stopper TD longbow with 452 Flemish string and wool puff silencers. I shoot split finger and use 29” BOP length woods, either Sitka Spruce or Chundoo(Lodgepole Pine), 3-5.5” banana fletched 55-59# spine tipped with 160 grain Snuffers or 165 grain Ace Express broadheads.

As far as recurves are concerned, I have a couple Jack Howard Gamemaster's 66", 41# and 47#, a 66”, 42# Browning Apollo and a 62”, 41# Damon Howatt Monterrey that I shoot, along with a couple Bear TD Mag bows. I use the before mentioned woods, plus Carbonwood 5000’s with 125 grain steel adapters and/or 1918, 1920, or 2018's aluminum’s with glue on broadhead adapters. These are usually 60/120 (Look in the OTHER TIPS PAGE for further information about this 60/120 fletch) 4 fletched and tipped with either 160 grain Snuffers or 165 grain Ace Express broadheads.

I killed my first deer, back when, with a 62”, 42# Ben Pearson Cougar with 3 fletched cedar arrows tipped with Bear Razor heads. Over the ensuing years, I used the following bows. Groves Prestige Magnum w/overdraw, Staghorn Xp’s, Wilson Bros. Black Widow H-101, Wing Red Wing Hunter and Thunderbird, Jennings Model T compound ( Yep! But, only for a couple years in the 70’s), Loutham Tellem TD, Herter’s TD, Bear Kodiak Mag TD, Assenheimer TD’s, Bighorn, Bruin, Jerry Pierce, Cascade Golden Hawk Magnum TD, Ohio Hunter, Jack Howard Gamemaster Jet’s, Bob Lee TD longbow, Bob Lee TD recurve, Bob Lee Stick longbow, Black Widow MA-2 and probably some others that have been forgotten. During this time I, mostly used cedar arrows with some aluminums and fiberglass along the way. In later years, I used Chundoo (Lodgepole Pine). Now I use Sitka Spruce or Western Hemlock shafting. They all have been tipped w/ Snuffers since 1970. Most were 4 fletched. I started using 3 fletch shot cock feather in (Rob shoots this way, too) about 15 years ago. Look in the OTHER TIPS PAGE for further information why we shoot cock feather in. My all time favorite bows are the Jack Howard Gamemaster's and Assenheimer TD recurves as well as some of the old time bows like Wing and Damon Howatt. They have been the most accurate, smoothest shooting bows in my hands.

For longbows I like the Sunset Hill and Schulz. I have a 42#, 66" Sunset Hill and a 64", 36# @ 26" Schulz all bamboo along with a Miller all bamboo in 66" and 50# @ 28". Truth be known, I love the simplicity and romance of a longbow, but can not shoot them as well as the above recurves. I shoot the Thunderhorn Heart Stopper TD longbows the best of the many I have tried over the years. I am determined to take some game with these longbows. However, I must say that it takes much more practice on my part to remain confident with them. Whenever, my shooting falters a bit with the longbow, I can pick up either the Gamemaster jet or Assenheimer TD and my shooting improves, instantly. I really envy those who truly excel with a longbow.

We both prefer and use bow quivers while bowhunting, with our preference being, the strap-on or bolt-on Great Northern Adjustable 5 Arrow Quiver. Look in the OTHER TIPS PAGE for how we modify them. The later years now I am using a hip quiver that Marv Clynke makes.

What is your favorite animal to bowhunt?
Rob, lives in Wisconsin, favors whitetails. He has harvested Whitetail and Mule Deer in 25+ years of bowhunting.

I love bowhunting whitetails, too but since moving to Idaho in 1994, I dearly miss these opportunities. Now that we moved to Iowa in 2006 big whitetails are formost. However, my all time favorite animal is bears. I have successfully harvested bear in Wisconsin, Colorado, Wyoming and soon to be, Idaho plus unsuccessful attempts (Only in not harvesting for truly every bowhunt is successful to us, whether game is taken, or not.) in Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario and Michigan. Someday, I am going to bowhunt the Coastal areas of Alaska for Black Bear. My fantasy bowhunt would be for Grizzly, Kodiak, or Russian Brown Bear, but unless I win, the lottery these are only fantasies because of the high dollar cost involved and I prefer “Do It Yourself” bowhunting. I have harvested Whitetail, Mule Deer, Antelope, Elk, and Black Bear in 51 years of bowhunting.
 *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * 

Setup & Tuning Tips - Keeping it Simple 

The following are steps we use to tune our bows/arrows/broadheads for optimal performance in hunting situations. Please keep in mind that Rob & I are bowhunters, first. We do not partake in target archery, nor do we attend the ever-popular 3-D shoots. These last two types of Archery necessitate different techniques and mindset to excel, or even enjoy. The late, great Howard Hill always stated that one needed to make up their mind whether to be a hunting or target archer. The necessary attributes are so vastly different that attempting to do both only confuses oneself and causes one to not obtain the potential they are capable of obtaining in either.

The following are the essentials needed to tune your equipment.
Brass nock points, nock point tool, bow square, 2-3 differently spined arrows fletched up just as you would use while bowhunting tipped with your favorite broadhead. In addition, some sort of backstop capable for use of broadheads, like a pile of sand or rock free dirt, large piece of foam, or large, loosely packed round bale of straw or hay.

Since we are bowhunters and use broadheads while hunting, we tune our equipment with broadhead tipped arrows. Once we find the perfect flying broadhead tipped arrow, we than can use any other type of point for practice with no ill effects. It has been common knowledge for many decades that an arrow tipped with field points, which flies straight and true, may or may not fly true with broadheads. For years, bowhunters were taught to shoot all their broadheads to weed out the “flyers”. Conversely, we know that an arrow which flies true while broadhead tipped will always fly true with any other type of point, be it field, Judo or blunt.

It makes absolutely no sense to go through all that is necessary getting good arrow flight with field point tipped arrows, or for that matter, bare shafts and then still not know for sure whether broadheads mounted on these same arrows will fly true. Rather, we choose to eliminate this difficult, lengthy effort and waste of time, and tune with equipment exactly as it will be used in the field, Bowhunting.
Ok, here goes.

1. Make sure your arrows are straight and that your favorite broadhead spins true one each one.

2. Make sure the brace height is set at bow manufacture’s re commendation.

3. Set nocking point at 1/2” above square. We nock under the nocking point, but if you nock over (Howard Hill Style) then set nocking point at 1/8” above square.

4. If you will use a bow quiver while bowhunting, make sure it is attached to your bow. Fill it with arrows of similar weight, same as will be later used. Bows definitely do shoot different and require different combinations when using a bow quiver, compared to not using one.

5. Proceed to your target/backstop area and position yourself approximately 20-25 yards away. This will give ample time to follow the arrow flight. It is crucial that one be able to see an arrow in flight in order to make necessary adjustments to brace height, nock point & spine.

6. Nock an arrow, pick a spot, draw and hold, aim but do not shoot/release, then let down. Repeat this as many times as is necessary to limber up the muscles, obtain great concentration, as well as the proper sight picture. I must add here that seeing the pointed arrow, directionally speaking, in secondary vision while at full draw is necessary for accuracy. Without this, the computer that sits atop your shoulders will be unable to unconsciously direct you to consistent accuracy.

7. Now, you are ready to tune. Nock an arrow and repeat all of the above steps, but this time release the arrow and watch the arrow in flight. This is where it is so important that one sees the arrow flight, but don’t look for it before, or just as you release. (This is called peaking.)

The optimum arrow flight we are trying to obtain is that of just a ball of feathers spinning around a nock as it goes towards your chosen target/backstop. If this should happen on your first shot (Many times this is what we experience.), or any future shots, you are basically, finished. You now have successfully tuned your equipment for perfect flight, while bowhunting and for any other use.

If not, then some changes need to be made to brace height, nock point shaft spine or a combination, depending upon what is seen of the arrow flight.

A. If, back end of arrow flip back and forth sideways (horizontal), the spine is too weak. Use a stiffer spine until this characteristic disappears.

B. If, back end of arrow flips up and down (vertically) your nock point is too low. Raise nock point until this characteristic disappears.C.    If, back end of arrow drops low (vertically) your nock point is too high. Lower nock point until this characteristic disappears.

D. If, back end of arrow kicks left horizontally, (Opposite is true for left handed shooter.) shortly after leaving bow, but then later corrects itself and flies straight there could be one of two problems. First off, re-check your brace height to see if it has decreased. If so, increase it until this characteristic disappears. Second, there could be a fletch contact problem with shelf and/or rest material. Observation of shelf material usually will indicate a contact/wear point if this is the problem. Remove, shorten or separate the shelf material until this characteristic disappears.

E. If, back end of arrow porpoises (circular motion) it is a combination of low nock point and brace height. Raise nock point and brace height until this characteristic disappears.

F. If, the arrow seems to fly straight, but suddenly veers in flight (planning), there could be several problems. Arrow spine is too weak, fletching too small, or broadhead is not mounted straight. Vented broadheads, whether 2, 3, or 4 blades are the easiest to obtain perfect flight. Wide, non-vented broadheads are the most difficult to obtain perfect flight. In either case, increasing spine and/or feather size or number of feathers are necessary until this characteristic disappears.

Note. I see no reason why anyone would want to scrimp on fletching size. The objective for bowhunting and accuracy is to straighten out the arrow from paradox as fast as possible so the arrows flies true, in order to miss unforeseen objects, like leaves, branches and twigs, which will cause a deflection. In addition, the arrow needs to be flying straight when entering your target (animal) so as not to retard penetration.

G. If, all you see is a ball of feathers spinning around the nock, but the arrow consistently impacts to the left (Opposite is true for left handed.) of spot your arrow is too stiff. Decrease spine until this characteristic disappears.

All of the above Cause-Effect Scenarios are predicated upon the Archer’s use of and awareness of consistent form, i.e. draw, hold, and release. If you pluck the release, one needs to be aware of this so you can disregard what happened to the arrow flight. Likewise, if your bow arm collapses or you move it up or down at time of release be aware of this and disregard the arrow flight. When everything is working correctly and perfectly one will not be consciously aware of anything. It will just happen. This can only happen from the use of properly, perfectly tuned equipment, consistent & repeatable form, and practice.

How do we practice?
Since bowhunting is our only goal, we do not practice with repetition. We do not take multiple successive shots at the same target from the same distance and stance position. Bowhunting, rarely ever offers the perfect shot under perfect conditions. Even rarer is multiple shot opportunities.

Therefore, we practice with our favorite broadhead tipped arrows if the lay of land is suitable. Most likely, though, it is with Judo Points or blunts, like the Ace Hex Blunt. Many call our type of practice “Stump Shooting”, but more appropriately, it is called “Roving”. Roving is the act of wandering through hills, field and forest shooting one arrow at varying distances. We choose objects, like stumps, bushes, a clump of leaves, a spot of bare dirt; or something out of the norm like scattered objects, such as pieces of paper or trash, cans, bottles, etc.; or small creatures like birds, squirrels and rodents (As long as they are legal quarry and in season), while varying the distance. After the shot, we walk up to retrieve arrow and proceed to the next potential target.

Keep in mind that your target should not be large. If it is too large like a stump or clump of brush, concentrate on a very small spot instead of the whole object. One will shoot more consistently and accurately from concentrating on the smallest of spot, rather than the larger.

One arrow “Roving” practice, at varying distances, is absolutely, bar none, the best type of practice for bowhunters. Besides, what greater way to spend time than being a field roving the hills & forest taking in Mother Nature in all her glory. Sometimes, I get so immersed in the pleasures of the Great Outdoors, while roving, that if for some reason I could not bowhunt anymore, or bowhunting was eliminated; I would be perfectly content just watching the flight of an arrow.
*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * 

Other Great Tips 

How do we install points?
Necessary tools are the following: Pliers, amber colored Hot Melt, small torch and small container of water.

Ignite torch, hold stick of Hot Melt in flame to melt slightly and put a small pea sized gob on point taper. Then take pliers and grasp point. Caution: Do not heat broadheads too long as this can change the temper of steel. If, using point with oil on it, remove this oil with the flame, including inside ferrule. Field Points and some Blunts usually, have oil on them to protect from rusting. Broadheads seldom have this oil coating. Hold point in flame to heat. All it takes is 15-20 seconds of holding point in torch flame.

Now, with the arrow in one hand and heated point/pliers in other, insert point taper into point while pushing the arrow and rotating it to seat sand spread hot melt, thoroughly. Some excess hot melt should now, be forced out of point. Wipe off with scrap rag. Caution: This could be hot! Be careful! Immediately, spin arrow on its point tip watching the area where the point/shaft meet for any wobble. If none, then dipped point in the water. If, there is wobble this needs to be corrected. As long as the point is still hot, a little correction is needed in one direction or the other, while resting the point tip of some surface. As soon as the arrow/points spins true and straight immerse point in water to cool and set the hot melt joint.

Modifying Great Northern Quivers
We use a simple modification on our Great Northern Quivers to keep the fletching end of arrows from sticking out in front of bow. Take the bottom arm and bend it to a 90-degree angle. Now, the bottom strap will attach to the side of bow, instead of the back. This will bring the arrows back inside the strung bow profile, which makes it much easier to maneuver through brush and tight spots. Also, the upper arm may need to be bent slightly to conform to the angle of the bow where it is mounted. When mounting the quiver to your bow the straps should come off the bottom of bracket, not the top.

Note: The quiver on right is unmodified. One on left has modifications done to both arms.

Note how the arrows stick out in front of limbs on the top bow and where the modifications place the arrows on the bottom bow.

Silencing Techniques
For best silencing, we find that silencers need to be, positioned much closer to the string/limb contact point. Usually, 8” - 9” works best for us. Some bows require two pair of silencers, others one and some need none, like straight, limbed longbows with B-50, Dacron strings.

The use of non-stretch type string materials, i.e. fastflite, Dynaflite, 450+, dyneema, 452, etc. may require additional padding on recurves to get the desired quietness. We use ordinary wool yarn, by wrapping it around the string starting at the bottom corner of loop. Continue wrapping around string loop and down string several inches until past the limb contact area. Simply, tuck in the end of yarn into a couple of the twisted strands. We used to put moleskin on the limbs in the string grooves to prevent string slap noise, but now prefer the yarn wrapping method.

The following are examples of how we silence our bows.

My Thunderhorn Heart Stopper TD longbows and the silencing method used on each. The front bow has a fastflite string and one full pair of cat whisker silencers tied on via a simple overhand knot, so they slide up and down the string, to achieve the best effect. The back bow has a 452 string with one pair of wool puffs split in half, and slipped in between twisted strands. These can slide to achieve best effect.

This is Rob’s Black Widow MA-II and the silencing method used. 452 string with yarn wrap on ends and one pair of cat whiskers split in half and loop over string. They are placed at 8” and 9” from string/limb contact point. This is the quietest combination we have found for Black Widow recurve bows.

My Assenheimer TD, with 452 string and silencer method used. One pair of cat whiskers tied onto string with simple overhand knot, positioned at 9” from limb/string contact point. These bows need very little silencing, to be very quiet.

My Bob Lee Thunderbolt, with 12 strand B-50 string and silencer method used. One wool puff split in half and slipped between twisted strands, positioned at 8” from limb/string contact point. Usually, very little silencing is needed on bows using B-50 strings.

A Sunset Hill straight limbed longbow, with B-50 string. No silencing method should be needed on these type bows.

Why do we use 60/120 4 fletch, instead of the more common 90 or 75/105 4 fletch?

Why do we use cock feather in 3 fletch, instead of the more common cock feather out 3 fletch?
Simply put, it is all about fletching clearance, improved flight and the ability to use lower nocking points. Lowering the back end of an arrow on the string brings the front end higher, creating increased trajectory. It is best explained, by the use of the following pictures.

Note how the bottom feathers in this 90 degree 4 fletch are positioned in relationship to the shelf. The bottom right feather will strike the shelf, while going through paradox, causing a bump/kick up off the shelf. To eliminate this most archers have to raise their nocking point until this kick up disappears.

Note how the feathers are positioned with our 60/120 4 fletch in relationship to the shelf. There no longer are any feathers striking the shelf, while the arrow goes through paradox. Therefore, one can use a lower nocking point. For many years, I used the common 90 degree four fletch and had excellent results. My nock point usually was quite high, like 3/4 “ above square, or more. When, my good friend Roger Rothhaar told me about the 60/120 degree four fletch many years ago, I had to try it. Wow, was I surprised! I was able to lower my nocking point over 1/4 “, which gave me more trajectory without having to raise my point of aim. The best part though, was improved flight.

Note how the bottom hen feather is positioned in the common, cock feather out 3 fletch. This bottom, hen feather will strike the shelf, while going through paradox, causing a bump/kick up off the shelf. To eliminate this most archers have to raise their nocking point until this kick up disappears.

Now note how the feather positions have changed in the cock feather in 3 fletch. The bottom hen feather now sits out and away from the shelf. There no longer is any feather striking the shelf, while the arrow goes through paradox. Therefore, one can use a lower nocking point. Over the years, I did not like the way the common cock feather out 3 fletch flew off my bows, because the nocking point had to be so high to eliminate the bump/kick up when the hen feather struck the shelf. Most of the time, my nocking point had to be set near 1” above square. I first saw about using cock feather in Jack Howard’s, The Bowhunting Catalog. He had taken high-speed photographs of arrows going through paradox when shot with the cock feather out method and the cock feather in method. Along, with his explanation of the merits of using cock feather in and the pictures it was clear as a bell which method was better. Naturally, I had to try this. Again, I was amazed at the results. Arrow flight had improved so much and my nocking point was lowered nearly 1/2 “, which gave me increased trajectory without having to raise my point of aim.

Ok, so if you have read all this and now wonder how we do it, bear with me for just a little longer. The cock feather in is simple to accomplish. Nothing special needs to be done while fletching your arrows. Instead, of nocking the arrow the normal, common cock feather out way, just rotate nock 180 degrees and put on string.

The 60/120 degree 4 fletch alignment is done during fletching with the three fletch jig. Install two-hen feather and two cock feathers. The following instructions are for right-handed shooters. If you are left-handed, you will do the opposite for the hen feather position, only. First, put on the cock feather. Then rotate the nock indicator of your jig to the left (counter-clockwise) and install a hen feather. This is where if, you are left-handed, you will need to rotate the nock indicator of your jig right (clockwise). Now remove shaft from jig, rotate 180 degrees and return to jig. Put on another feather. Finally, turn the nock indicator back to the cock feather position and install another feather. Wholla!
*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * 

Kelly's Favorite Archery Web Site Links
Website Builder